Costume Jewellery
Also called fashion jewellery, paste.
Typical period: 1920–1970
A large collecting field where the signature does most of the work. Clasp and finding types give a rough date, and the maker's mark gives value.
What you are looking at
Non-precious jewellery in base metal with glass or plastic stones, often signed on the back of the setting or on a clasp.
How to date it
- Clasp type: C-clasps generally pre-1920, roll-over safety clasps roughly 1920 onward, lever-back and modern clasps later.
- Screw-back earrings roughly 1900 to 1950; clip-backs from the 1930s; pierced posts common from the 1960s.
- Signatures on the reverse — Trifari, Coro, Eisenberg, Miriam Haskell, Weiss — and mark styles are documented and datable.
- 'Sterling' in wartime costume jewellery indicates roughly 1942 to 1947, when base metals were restricted.
- Patent numbers can be looked up for an exact grant year.
Spotting a reproduction
- Faked signatures on unsigned pieces are common in the higher-value makers — compare the font and depth with documented examples.
- Reproduction settings are lighter, and modern rhinestones are often glued rather than prong-set or foiled.
- Original foiled rhinestones darken behind the stone as the foil degrades; new stones stay bright.
What it is worth
Signature drives price almost entirely. Unsigned pieces of equal quality sell for a fraction. Condition matters — missing stones and worn plating cut value sharply.
Confused with
Precious metal marks, and stones set rather than glued. Costume pieces are base metal and plated.
Questions about this
How do you date costume jewellery?
Clasp type: C-clasps generally pre-1920, roll-over safety clasps roughly 1920 onward, lever-back and modern clasps later. Screw-back earrings roughly 1900 to 1950; clip-backs from the 1930s; pierced posts common from the 1960s.
How do you spot a reproduction?
Faked signatures on unsigned pieces are common in the higher-value makers — compare the font and depth with documented examples.
Are costume jewellery valuable?
Signature drives price almost entirely. Unsigned pieces of equal quality sell for a fraction. Condition matters — missing stones and worn plating cut value sharply.