What to Put in a Bird Feeder

By IdentifyThese Editorial · Reviewed · 3 min read

One seed does most of the work, and most mixed bags are worse value than they look.

Black oil sunflower

If you buy one thing, buy this. Thin shell, high fat, small enough for chickadees and rich enough for cardinals. It is taken by more feeder species than any other single food.

Striped sunflower is a thicker shell and suits larger, stronger-billed birds — cardinals, jays, grosbeaks — while excluding house sparrows, which is sometimes the point.

Hulled sunflower costs more per kilo and is often cheaper in practice: there is no shell to discard, nothing accumulates below the feeder, and none of what you buy is thrown away.

What each seed actually brings

Seed Draws Notes
Black oil sunflower Nearly everything The default
Hulled sunflower Everything, no mess No shells under the feeder
Safflower Cardinals, chickadees, finches Squirrels and house sparrows mostly refuse it
Nyjer Goldfinches, siskins, redpolls Needs a mesh feeder; goes rancid fast
Peanuts Titmice, jays, woodpeckers, nuthatches Whole in shell, or in a mesh feeder
Suet Woodpeckers, nuthatches, wrens Best in cold weather
White proso millet Juncos, sparrows, doves Scatter on the ground
Cracked corn Doves, jays, ground feeders Draws deer and rodents too
Red milo Almost nothing The main filler in cheap mixes

Safflower is the useful trick. Cardinals take it readily, grey squirrels and house sparrows mostly do not, and it solves two problems without a special feeder.

Why cheap mix is expensive

A cheap bag is mostly red milo, wheat and cracked corn. Most feeder birds will not eat milo or wheat at all — they flick it aside looking for the sunflower, and it accumulates below the feeder, where it rots and draws rodents.

You pay less per kilo and discard a large fraction of it. A bag of straight black oil sunflower costs more and delivers more food.

Matching the feeder

  • Tube feeder — sunflower or mixed. Short perches exclude grackles and starlings.
  • Hopper — general purpose, holds a lot, suits cardinals and jays.
  • Platform — everything, including ground feeders. Needs a drainage mesh and regular cleaning.
  • Nyjer mesh or sock — goldfinches only, and they will feed upside down.
  • Suet cage — woodpeckers. An upside-down suet feeder excludes starlings, which cannot feed hanging.
  • Ground or low tray — juncos, doves, sparrows, towhees. Many species will not use a hanging feeder at all.

The part that matters more than the seed

Clean the feeder. Every two weeks in warm weather, monthly otherwise. Hot soapy water, a dilute bleach rinse, and dry completely before refilling.

Dirty feeders spread salmonellosis, trichomonosis and house finch eye disease, and concentrating birds at a food source is exactly what lets those spread. If you see a bird with crusted or swollen eyes, or one that sits fluffed and unafraid, take the feeder down for two weeks and clean everything.

Also:

  • Rake up the spill. It rots, molds and draws rats.
  • Move the feeder occasionally so droppings do not build up in one spot.
  • Store seed dry and sealed. Damp seed grows aspergillus, which kills birds.

Water

More useful than any seed, and almost nobody provides it. A shallow dish, no more than 5 cm deep, with a rough surface for grip, refreshed every couple of days.

In winter a heated bath brings birds that will never touch a feeder — thrushes, waxwings, warblers.

What not to put out

  • Bread. Fills birds without feeding them, and causes wing deformity in waterfowl.
  • Salted or roasted nuts.
  • Desiccated coconut, which swells.
  • Milk. Birds cannot digest lactose.
  • Anything moldy. Aspergillus is fatal and moldy seed is a common cause of feeder die-offs.

Where to put it

Either within a metre of a window or more than ten metres from one. The middle distance is where birds build up enough speed to injure themselves on the glass, and window strikes kill far more birds than people realise — what to do when one hits covers both the first aid and the fix.

Species referenced

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