Grey Fuzz on Flowers and Fruit
By IdentifyThese Editorial · Reviewed · 3 min read
Botrytis is the disease of enclosed spaces — greenhouses, conservatories, propagators, and any windowsill with poor air movement.
What it looks like
A soft grey-brown mould with a distinctly fuzzy texture, on flowers, fruit, or the base of soft stems. Disturbed, it releases a visible puff of spores.
The tissue underneath collapses into a wet rot rather than drying out. That distinguishes it from most leaf-spot diseases, which leave dead but firm tissue behind.
The entry point
Botrytis is a weak pathogen. It rarely attacks healthy undamaged tissue, and it establishes on something already dead or dying — a faded petal, a bruised fruit, a pruning wound, a leaf killed by something else.
From that base it grows into adjacent healthy tissue, which is what makes it destructive.
The practical consequence is unusual among plant diseases: tidying is the treatment. Removing spent flowers and dead leaves takes away the entry points, and a plant with no dying tissue on it is largely safe.
Conditions
| Factor | Favours botrytis | Suppresses it |
|---|---|---|
| Humidity | Above about 85% | Below 70% |
| Air movement | Still | Any circulation |
| Temperature | 15–20°C | Warmer or colder |
| Foliage | Wet | Dry |
| Dead material | Present | Removed |
The temperature range is worth noting because it covers exactly the conditions of an unheated greenhouse in autumn, which is when the disease does most of its damage.
Where it hits hardest
Seedlings, where it merges with damping off — the same still, humid, crowded conditions produce both, as damping off in seedlings describes.
Soft fruit, particularly strawberries, where fruit touching wet soil or foliage rots before ripening.
Tomatoes under glass, entering through leaf scars left by pruning. Pruning in dry conditions in the morning, so the wound seals before evening, measurably reduces it.
Cuttings under cover, where the propagator's humidity is the point and also the risk.
Controlling it
Ventilate. More than feels necessary. Air movement is the single most effective control, and a small fan in a greenhouse does more than any spray.
Space plants. Crowding creates still humid air in the canopy regardless of what the greenhouse as a whole is doing.
Water the soil, in the morning. Wet foliage overnight is what the fungus needs.
Dead-head and clear debris continuously. Not as tidiness but as control.
Avoid damage. Bruises and tears are entry points, and rough handling during picking is a common source.
Fungicides exist and resistance is widespread, partly because the fungus reproduces quickly and has been sprayed heavily in commercial production. On a home scale the cultural measures do more.
In storage
Botrytis is why soft fruit goes mouldy in the fridge, and why one affected fruit takes the punnet with it. It continues growing at refrigerator temperatures, slowly.
Sorting fruit before storing, and removing any that is damaged, is worth the two minutes — the same principle as removing dying tissue on the plant, applied after picking.
Distinguishing it from the other moulds
White powdery growth on the upper leaf surface is mildew, not botrytis, and the distinction matters because the conditions differ — powdery mildew tolerates dry air where botrytis needs it humid. The comparison is in powdery and downy mildew.
Blue-green mould on fruit is usually Penicillium, a storage rot that arrives after picking rather than in the garden.
White fluffy growth on the soil surface is generally a harmless saprophyte living on organic matter in the mix, and it indicates a wet surface rather than a diseased plant.
The unusual exception
Botrytis on grapes late in the season, under the right alternating wet and dry conditions, concentrates sugars and is deliberately encouraged to make sweet wines.
That is a narrow and carefully managed case. Everywhere else in a garden it is a straightforward loss, and the conditions that produce the desirable form are not the ones present in a damp greenhouse.
Problems referenced
Check these two things first
- Push a finger into the soil, two knuckles deep. Wet soil plus a wilting plant means too much water, not too little — and it is the commonest reason a plant is dying. Dry soil plus crisp leaves means the opposite. The leaves look nearly identical either way, so the soil is what tells you.
- Turn a damaged leaf over. Half of all diagnoses live on the underside: fuzz means downy mildew, fine webbing means spider mites, clusters of insects mean aphids. Nothing on the top of a leaf is as informative.
Most garden problems are cosmetic and resolve without treatment. Reach for a spray last, not first.
Keep reading
- Powdery Mildew or Downy Mildew? They Are Not RelatedPowdery mildew sits on top of the leaf and wipes off. Downy mildew grows underneath and is bounded by the veins. One is a nuisance; the other kills crops.
- Seedlings Falling Over at Soil Level: Damping OffA seedling that topples with a pinched, water-soaked stem has damping off. It is not treatable once it starts, and everything useful happens before sowing.
- Blossom End Rot Is Not a Calcium DeficiencyThe soil almost always has enough calcium. The problem is getting it to the fruit, which is a watering problem — and that is why the sprays and tablets fail.